PixelPower

Voltage drop along an LED strip

The far end of a long strip goes yellow, then orange, then dark. Here is the arithmetic behind that, what most calculators get wrong about it, and how to decide how many feeds a run needs.

Published · Figures computed live by the PixelPower engine

Why it is half

A strip is not a resistor with a load on the end. Every pixel takes its share along the way, so the copper at any point only carries the current of what lies beyond it: at the feed it carries everything, at the far tip nothing. Integrating that falling current along the run gives the drop at the tip as r·L·I / 2 — half the lumped I·R, where r is the round-trip resistance of the +V and ground traces together, per metre.

The voltage profile is a parabola, not a line: most of the drop happens in the first third of the run. And the copper loss is r·L·I² / 3, a third rather than a half — real power the supply has to deliver on top of what the pixels use.

A feed cable is different. It carries the full current of its segment along its whole length, so its drop is the plain 2 × ρ × length / cross-section × I. Copper is 0.0172 Ω·mm²/m; copper-clad aluminium, which most cheap “18 AWG” LED wire actually is, about 0.028 — 63 % worse.

Why more feeds help so much

Feeding a run at both ends, or once in the centre, is the same problem: two half-length runs each fed at one end, each with a quarter of the drop. In general, evenly spaced feeds cut the drop with the square of their count — n equal segments give r·L·I / (2·n²). Four interior injection points give one sixty-fourth of the single-end drop.

That square is why one more feed beats thicker wire. Doubling the cable cross-section halves the cable’s drop; adding a second feed quarters the strip’s, and the strip’s is usually the larger.

Evenly spaced is conventional, not optimal. Two feeds at a quarter and three quarters of the run are four times better than two feeds at the ends: every span then drops r·i·L² / 32.

A worked example

Estimated drop at the worst point of a 5 m WS2812B run at 60 LEDs/m — 18.3 A at full white, standard copper — for evenly spaced feeds including both ends. A dash means the estimate is past the point where the model describes a working strip.

Feed pointsWorst pointDropEstimate
1Beyond what the model reports
2Beyond what the model reports
3Beyond what the model reports
4 3.96 V 21 %Works; colour shift likely
6 4.56 V 8.8 %Within the configured band

Where the model stops

The strip’s resistance is the dominant uncertainty. Real strips measure 0.3–1.5 Ω/m round trip; vendors do not publish it and it does not correlate with price. PixelPower makes it a visible choice — thin, standard or heavy copper — and carries the bracket into every figure rather than pretending to a decimal it does not have.

The load is not resistive. A 5 V pixel holds its current until the rail can no longer drive the blue die, at roughly 3.7 V; then blue drops out, then green, then red. A WS2815 regulator holds until roughly 9–11 V and then stops. Past about 25 % drop the linear model is no longer describing a working installation, so PixelPower reports no figure there. Between 10 % and 25 % the run works and will visibly shift colour. Both thresholds are yours to change; an architectural install holding a white tolerates far less than a party effect.

Not modelled: connectors and solder joints — four JST contacts at 5–30 mΩ each are worth about a metre of strip copper; copper temperature — 16 % more resistance at 60 °C, with positive feedback; and non-uniform content — one bright section at a free end behaves like the lumped I·R.

Your own numbers

Voltage drop on an LED strip is not the lumped I·R most calculators use: the current falls along the run as pixels take their share, so the drop is half that — and it falls with the square of the number of feed points. PixelPower estimates the voltage at every point of your run, in the strip and in the cable feeding it.

Open the voltage drop calculator

PixelPower produces engineering estimates, not a certification. Verify every figure against the manufacturer’s data and your local regulations before you buy or build.